Stockholm - tips for the traveller

• The best time to visit Sweden is in the summer months of June and July. The sun doesn’t set at all for several days during this time of the year. When the rest of the world is plunged in darkness in the night, Sweden and its Scandinavian counterparts have the unique experience of having sunlight at all hours of the night. Winters can be cold and crisp but in spring and autumn, the country is full of flowers and berries and in summer it can become quite warm.

• Commuting in Stockholm is not in the least bit difficult. Ferries, buses and underground trains leave at regular intervals to all destinations. But if one has the time, the best thing to do is to walk as much as possible in order not to miss the intermingling atmosphere of the medieval and the modern. Most Swedes speak English. So gathering information from Information Bureaus [marked as i] is not a problem at all. Stockholm is compact enough to be able to do a lot of sightseeing on foot. It is pedestrian friendly to the extent of having traffic lights which motorists actually observe. Conversely Swedish pedestrians are so disciplined that they respect red lights even when there is not a single car in sight

• Coming to tickling your appetite in Sweden, one must be aware that here, they do not have a great gastronomic reputation like France or Italy. Nevertheless, visitors to Sweden can definitely expect to eat well. The sight of all those healthy looking Swedes is proof enough to the high standards of Swedish cuisine. Swedes make the most of their natural resources when it comes to eating. Mushrooms and wild berries, meat of reindeer or elk and fish [considering the number of lakes and rivers they have] make up for most of their food.

• Sweden is probably best known abroad for its unpronounceable ‘Smorgasbord’. Translated literally, a ‘Smorgas’ is simply a slice of bread and ‘bord’ is a table. But it is definitely a misnomer to describe it as ‘bread and butter table’. The giant ‘Smorgasbord’ had its heyday in the 19^th century and even then was still regarded only as the prelude to a proper meal. Nowadays the Swedes are gourmets rather than gourmands. So the ‘Smorgasbord’is a meal in itself. The secret of ‘Smorgasbordship’ is to take things gradually and not to overload one’s plate. Start with a few slices of herring prepared in mustard or horseradish sauce, accompanied with a hot boiled potato. If you are lucky, you may encounter ‘gravad lax’ [thinly sliced salmon cured in dill].

• For the main course you graduate to a bewildering choice of cold meats or fish and salad or a typical hot dish like Swedish meat balls or ‘Jansson’sTemptation’ [a concoction of potatoes, onions and anchovies] before rounding off with a fruit salad.

• The best value for visitors is the breakfast served in most Swedish hotels, which is really a mini ‘Smorgasbord’ You’ll usually find several kinds of cereal, cheeses, herrings, boiled eggs, jams, fruits, milk and different types of bread, including the ubiquitous ‘Wasa bord’ [crisp bread]. You can stock up for the day with a hearty breakfast, but it would be a pity because the best value of eating out is to be had at lunchtime rather than in the evening. In cities you will often find many restaurants offering a ‘dagens ratt’ [dish of the day] for about 40 kronor which includes a main course, salad, soft drink and coffee. Eating out in the evening is generally much more expensive and you should reckon on paying not less than 150 kronor for a meal. The price of alcohol in Sweden is prohibitive, so you may prefer to stick to mineral water [Ramlosa is the best known local brand].

• The budget conscious will find plenty of cafes and cafeterias in the larger cities, as well as fast food outlets such as Wimpy or McDonald’s. For something more typically Swedish, try the ‘korvkiosk’, the nearest equivalent to Britain’s Chippy.

• When it comes to formality, the Swedes follow a rigorous protocol. If you happen to be invited to a Swedish home for dinner, remember to be punctual and to take something like chocolates or flowers for the hostess. The most important part of their table etiquette is to be aware of their ‘skaling’ [toasting a drink]. On no account take a sip till the host has raised his glass for his first ‘skal’ [pronounced as ‘skoll’]. After that, you are free to ‘skal’ anyone at the table at any time. One must remember to establish eye contact, while you raise your glass.

• All visitors to Sweden should have a valid visa to enter the country.

(The author has been a resident of Athens for more than a decade. An intrepid traveler, she has visited several of the European countries. This is a first hand recount of her many travelouges)